Glencoe

Glencoe (Gleann Comhann) is the deep U-shaped glen that the A82 climbs up from Loch Linnhe through to Rannoch Moor, on the southern edge of Lochaber. It is one of Scotland’s most photographed landscapes and one of its most editorially loaded — the 1692 massacre of the MacDonalds of Glencoe by government forces under Captain Robert Campbell sits in the national memory in a way that few other historical events do, and the National Trust visitor centre at the foot of the glen handles the story with appropriate weight.

Geographically the glen is framed by serious hill country. To the south, Bidean nam Bian (1,150 m) is the highest peak in the old county of Argyll, with its three northern outliers — the Three Sisters (Beinn Fhada, Gearr Aonach, and Aonach Dubh) — forming the most-photographed road-level view in the Highlands. To the north, the Aonach Eagach ridge gives one of the UK’s most committing ridge scrambles, a Grade 2 narrow-edge traverse that should not be undertaken lightly. The Buachaille Etive Mòr (1,022 m), standing sentinel at the head of Glen Etive where it joins Glencoe, is one of the most distinctive mountain shapes in Scotland.

The National Trust for Scotland Glencoe Visitor Centre, a few minutes south-west of Glencoe village on the A82, is the orientation point for the whole glen — exhibits on the geology, the wildlife and the 1692 massacre, plus a café and the start point for the easy Woodland Walk that doesn’t require any mountain commitment. Glencoe village itself, on the south shore of Loch Leven, has the Clachaig Inn (a long-standing climbers’ pub) and the Glencoe Folk Museum.

At the eastern end of the glen, where the road climbs onto Rannoch Moor, Glencoe Mountain Resort runs Scotland’s oldest ski operation (founded 1956) — a small but well-loved hill with chairlift access in winter and walking, mountain-biking and the Lodge café through summer. The West Highland Way climbs the Devil’s Staircase out of Kingshouse at the eastern end of Glencoe, one of the route’s most memorable single sections.

Practical notes

The A82 through Glencoe is the only road and gets very busy in summer, but most of the well-known viewpoint laybys (the Three Sisters, the meeting of the three waters at the head of the glen, the Lost Valley walk-in) have proper parking. The Lost Valley (Coire Gabhail) is a moderate 2-to-3-hour return walk through a hidden corrie that the MacDonalds reputedly used to hide cattle — well worth doing if you have a half-day free. As with anywhere in the Highlands, the weather can turn quickly; come prepared.